Our home possibly has the most dangerous staircase in the entire Northwest. Back in 1890, the home’s builder wasn’t one to waste valuable floor space.
Rather than building a functional staircase with wide treads, a gentle climb, and landings, he went straight up in a style our family had dubbed “Victorian Mine Shaft.”
Our witty friends refer to it as “Whoa, is that your staircase?” Staircases tend not to be remodelable without tearing apart half the house. To make a killer staircase less hazardous without remodeling your home, it takes thinking creatively.
Once known as the ‘mine shaft’ because of it’s dark, steep ascent…this period staircase was remodelled into a safer and brighter entrance into the upstairs.
Evaluating the Problem
Before reworking your staircase, it helps to evaluate the problem. Take a careful look at the lighting, the handrail, and the treads and note areas that can be improved.
In our home, we felt the biggest hazard of the staircase was the lack of light. The 1930s remodel closed up the stairwell in two locations which cut out natural light, a significant mistake since the staircase was only lit with a 25-watt closet bulb.
Adding to the darkness was a flat parchment green paint on walls, ceiling, and millwork which contributed to the “mine shaft” feeling. A substandard handrail was also a problem since it tended to pull out of the wall when held.
Last but not least, the bare wood treads had been painted with glossy red paint which was entirely too slippery to walk on.
Once we identified the problems, coming up with a plan was really pretty easy. Here’s what we did to open up the staircase, and make it one of the more inviting features of our home. These tips may help your staircase safer as well.
Bring in Natural Light
If your staircase is dark, look at the possibility of bringing in natural lighting through a skylight or by installing either an interior or exterior window.
With our staircase, we removed a retrofitted dividing wall that separated the staircase from the back bedroom hall and removed a fake “Craftsman” archway at the base of the staircase. These two modifications brought in incredible amounts of light from the bedrooms and eliminated the “mine shaft” look.
Paint or Wallpaper the Walls as Light as Possible
Since staircases do not tend to receive direct sunlight, semi-gloss paint and shiny wallpaper can reflect natural light around a room and make it appear both larger and brighter.
For our staircase, we brought the foyer wallpaper up the staircase and into the halls. The millwork was painted a semigloss white and the ceiling painted a mid shade of yellow. From the photograph, you can see the natural light bouncing on the walls.
Replace Existing Light Fixtures
In older vernacular homes, staircases often had a minimum of lighting. One small fixture at the top of the stairs was typical. By adding a second fixture, or relocating a more substantial fixture in the center of the stairwell, you can increase the brightness of the area.
Since our staircase was illuminated by a tiny closet fixture, we had our electrician move the parlor chandelier into the center of the stairwell, and update it to hold three 100 watt bulbs.
The old fixture was removed and placed in a coat closet elsewhere in the house. The combination of light paper and the new 300-watt chandelier made the stairwell comfortably bright.
Replace the Handrail
If your handrail is substandard, replacing it with a sturdier model will make it easier to grip.
Many vernacular homes I’ve been in over the years seemed to use a simple dowel for a handrail. These dowels usually rested on brackets that were anchored into the lathe and plaster.
Our staircase had also had a dowel handrail that had pulled away from the walls after 130 years of folks grabbing for the rail as they tumbled down the staircase.
Part of our remodel included removing the existing lathe and plaster from the walls and replace it with sheetrock.
The new handrail was secured to new support studs and now is sturdy enough to hold a person who trips while coming down the stairs. The curved profile of the new handrail offers a hand better purchase than the old dowel.
Slip Proofing the Treads
While there are many ways of making a staircase slip-proof, what you use depends on how your stairs are designed, to begin with. While a hardwood staircase looks wonderful, with the steep pitch of our staircase, plain wood would have been a safety hazard.
We opted to carpet the staircase in a commercial Berber carpet which provided the slip-proof surface we needed without showing wear and tear.
All staircases have different challenges, and what worked for us might not necessarily work for your home. However, by providing more light, a good rail to grip, and a solid place to set one’s feet while climbing or descending, you can make any staircase safer.
Pretty papers are attractive, but using Christmas gift wrap once and throwing it away is not eco-friendly. Try these green alternatives to wrapping paper.
Stores are filled with Christmas gift wrap paper: Shiny, pretty papers block the aisles and are stacked up at checkout counters in supermarkets, drug stores, stationery stores, and virtually every other shop that sells small gifts and notions. ‘Tis the season to fill the landfills.
Wrapping paper is such a big part of gift-giving that we don’t even think twice about the irony of buying beautifully made papers that will be used to make a five-second impression, only to be torn off and thrown away. Coated and painted with metallics, gift wrap ends up in landfills. What a message to send to children!
Here are some green alternatives that will make special and clever Christmas wrappings, and reduce your holiday carbon footprint.
Read Also: Craft a Festive and Fragrant Christmas Twig Tree from Nature
Wrapping Gifts with Newspapers and Magazines
Using pages from newspapers or magazines to wrap gifts can look smart and crisp, especially if you take a few moments to select a page with lots of bright colors. Or take the time to select a page that has something to do with the gift itself, such as a book review of the book you are wrapping, or a page from the finance section to wrap a wallet.
Newspaper works especially well on books and similarly shaped packages. It’s not such a good choice for irregularly shaped gifts.
Baskets, Gift Bags, and Gift Boxes
Gift baskets make wonderful holiday presentations, with contents especially chosen for the recipient. You can “hide” the gifts in the basket by wrapping them in a newspaper or burying them in tissue paper. Choose a high-quality basket that the recipient will enjoy reusing throughout the year.
Gift Bags are another solution:
More and more gifts are presented in attractive little holiday bags, which are easily reusable. Indeed, while most people don’t even think twice about rumpling up beautiful wrapping papers and tossing them, they carefully keep the gift bags.
Just be sure you store them neatly so they are in good condition for reuse. Or, your children can use them next year to make Christmas arts and crafts.
Gift Boxes are an increasingly popular variation on gift bags. These cardboard boxes can come in shapes ranging from tubes for posters to boxes usable for clothing. They are sometimes given out at high-end stores.
The store’s logo is sometimes on the box somewhere, so the store gets a bit of branding benefit (and they reduce staffing needs in a department store’s gift-wrap department). The boxes are usually festive and attractive and don’t need to be wrapped. Boxes can also be bought at stationery stores.
Recyclable Gift Bag
Creative Gift Wrap: Using Scarves and Fabric
In Japan, silk scarves are sometimes used to wrap special gifts. There’s no reason you can’t do the same.
If you happen to travel a lot, note that scarves can be bought for as little as a couple of dollars in many developing countries, especially in Asia and the Middle East. So your gift includes not only wearable wrapping paper but a souvenir from a far-off land.
Along the same lines, if you happen to sew, you probably have a collection of gift-wrap sized fabric scraps that you’ve never found a use for. Now you have a way to use them!
Reusing and Recycling Gift Wraps
With your holiday supplies, keep a Christmas scrap box of small bits of old or odd-sized wrapping papers that will be good for wrapping little items such as jewelry, wallets, or ties. Bows and trimmings can also be reused if they are in good condition.
Good quality gift wrap can also be reused. The cheap metallic paper probably won’t survive in good enough condition, but thicker papers that were carefully folded can be used more than once.
Finally, if you feel you simply must use a newspaper for a special gift, be sure it is made of post-consumer recycled paper, and that it can be recycled. At least that way, you’re doing your part to reduce Christmas waste and keep the holidays from making too much of a contribution to the town dump.
A Christmas twig tree is hung on a wall or door like a wreath or given as a gift. The natural decorations from the garden and woods change with the seasons.
Making a twig tree can be a solo project, partner endeavor, or family adventure. While nature provides an endless storehouse of decorations, human imagination generates infinite combinations and variations.
The use of natural materials to create a Christmas twig tree in December can be the inspiration to adapt the tree for every season and reason throughout the coming year.
Framework for a Twig Tree
The framework for the twig tree is made of branches from trees and shrubs found on your property or on walks in the woods. The triangular frame requires three twigs. Two or three more twigs are needed to form crossbar branches for support.
Sturdy straight hardwood twigs with bark are best. The following specimens provide good twigs but experiment with what is in your surroundings:
The size of the framework depends on the space allocated for hanging the tree. For beginners, the manageable tree size is 36 inches tall.
Assembling the Twig Tree
Lay the three long sticks in a triangle on a clean flat surface indoors or outdoors. After deciding how large the tree will be, cut twigs to the desired lengths, allowing them to overlap an inch or two. Tie the twigs together at the three corners using cord, fishing line, floral wire and tape, raffia, ribbon, rubber bands, twist ties, yarn or wire.
Space, cut, and fasten the crossbars between the two vertical sides of the triangle. These branches add to the strength of the frame and provide additional space for decorations.
The tree framework should hold together firmly when held upright. Test hang the framework at its potential site.
Natural Materials for the Twig Tree
Use your imagination, ingenuity, and the natural materials at hand to make your first tree before branching out from there.
Start by taking a collecting walk across your property with pruning shears and basket. Snip colorful cuttings from each of your most berried trees and shrubs like:
- Wax myrtle
Snip cuttings from fine long-lasting broadleaf evergreen trees and shrubs specimens including:
- Tea olive
Snip cuttings from conifers like:
Take cuttings from evergreen vines:
Collect decorative structures from the following:
- Crepe myrtle seed pods
- Golden rain tree pods
- Groundsel shrub pappus
- Lunaria pods
- Milkweed pods
- Sweet gumballs
- Sycamore balls
Trimming the Twig Tree
There are many ways to trim the tree. One way is to space clusters of the most colorful foliage and berries at all of the angles of the triangle and cross branches. Then fill in the bare spaces with greenery and pods. The flexible vines can be wound around the twig surfaces.
Or, twine plant material around the framework first. Evergreen vines work well for this. Once the frame is covered in the vine, berries or pods are hung to dangle from the crossbars.
Having the framework on a flat surface allows you to arrange, rearrange, and tweak your design before fastening all with string or yarn for the final display.
Experiment with a variety of materials and hanging methods. Herb gardeners tie small bundles of dried or fresh herbs like rosemary, oregano, thyme, and sage to the frame.
Flower gardeners make an everlasting twig tree with bundles of dried flowers including babies’ breaths, candytuft, celosia, globe amaranth, hydrangea, lavender, statice, strawflower, and yarrow.
If the twig trees destination is a kitchen, then garlic, dried peppers, and dried ears of strawberry popcorn are appropriate decorations.
Another scent for a Christmas twig tree is citrus. Make dried lemon, lime and orange pinwheel ornaments sprinkled with cinnamon or studded with cloves and hung from the crossbars with ribbon.
Variations on a Twig Tree
The twig tree is an excellent activity for students learning to identify plants and plant parts. The activity also is one to teach elements of design in art class.
The simple triangle twig tree design with the use of scented natural materials is an activity visually impaired students can successfully participate in.
Making twig trees is a fun and frugal activity for families and for children’s parties. Provide the tools, twigs, and materials for guests to make their own twig trees to take home to hang.
Whether you make a twig tree as an alternative to an evergreen Christmas tree or an additional holiday decoration, it is a versatile natural craft for all ages and many occasions throughout the New Year.
- Haynie, Don. “Christmas Crafting.” The Herb Companion. December/January 1995/1996. pgs. 60-63.
- LeVan, Marthe. Nature Style. New York: Lark Books, 2002.
Mastering woodworking as a hobby or full-time profession is must more simple when sticking to some basic woodworking strategies.
Woodworking is an art that has been around since Adam vacated the Garden of Eden and had to take care of his family on his own. The first documented evidence of the workbench goes back to the Roman Empire.
In addition, today’s modern DIY woodworkers use not only manual hand tools like chisels and wood planes, but also electric woodworking equipment like wood routers and electric circular saws.
The Home-Based Woodworking Shop
All DIY woodworkers must have a workshop of some size or another. In most cases, a room in the basement or a corner of the garage is the first workshop the DIY woodworking enthusiast experiences.
No matter the size or location, two things must take center stage; the dust collection system and the air ventilation system. If wood dust and gases build up, then they become both a fire and health hazard for the woodworker and those around the workshop.
The DIY Workshop Storage Solution
Do-it-yourself woodworkers need adequate storage space for both supplies and woodworking equipment. The best way to design storage space without encroaching into other areas of the home is to use ceiling space for wood stock, or seldom-used supplies, and the square footage found under most workbenches.
For hand tools and other equipment or supplies, build wood shelving or cabinets along the wall above the workbench or woodworking floor equipment.
DIY Workbench Plans
The DIY Workbench
A woodworking shop can be located anywhere, a woodworking enthusiast can place a workbench; a space as small as a closet, and as large as ½ of a two-car garage. However, the best workbench is one large enough to allow the DIY woodworker to enjoy their wood project, without the stress of parts falling off the workbench.
In some woodworking shops, there are two main workbenches, the bench used to build and sand the project and a finishing workbench for the final finish and drying.
DIY Woodworking Safety
The DIY home-based woodworking shop is peaceful refuse, where creative ideas give shape to finished projects. However, it is also a place where accidents will occur based on the very activities taking place. There are a few things, which every woodworker can do, to cut down on accidents.
Read the instruction manuals on each piece of woodworking equipment in the woodshop. Focus on personal safety by wearing eye protection, and thin leather gloves to protect the woodworker’s hands from splinters, cuts from standing saw blades or hazardous finish removers.
Moreover, make sure all electric equipment is in fine working order, and no cords laying in standing liquids.
Woodworking as a hobby or a profession is the most relaxing of all art forms and when mastered can bring generations of joy to the master artisan. Take time to master one woodworking tool at a time, and keep good notes in a journal detailing your mistakes, successes, and unique techniques, so the next generation of woodsmiths can care on the craft.
Here is an easier way to make removing old paint and varnish less of a chore thanks to a history buff who appreciates the value of old wooden furniture.
Save Time and Money Refinishing Wooden Furniture with this Great Tips
Many Do-it-Yourself articles begin by asking the reader to consider whether or not they have the time and patience required to complete a tedious project. In the 30 years that John Van Noort has been refinishing furniture as a hobby, he has developed a labour-saving technique to speed up that craft without compromising on efficacy.
The Toronto born historian’s material of choice is wood. Van Noort says he still follows the advice he was given decades ago.
“A boss once said to me, ‘If you buy furniture, only buy something made out of solid wood, even if you have to wait, because it will always hold its value; it’s a good investment,‘ and I’ve always remembered that. I wasn’t in his league financially, so I couldn’t buy wooden furniture new. I’m a history buff so I’ve always been interested in anything antique, so I always bought pieces that needed to be refinished.”
Van Noort hastens to add that resurfacing wooden furniture isn’t always the way to go.
“If it has the original finish and it’s in good shape, you don’t want to touch it, as that would decrease the value.“
If, however, he says you come upon a great wooden dresser, table, or cabinet, for instance, and it has a number of coats of paint, you may be able to recover a potential money-maker that no-one else wants to tackle.
“A lot of people get discouraged after trying expensive paint strippers that take so long and are very labour intensive,” he notes. “People shouldn’t give up with a bad experience on their conscience.“
The Central Ontario resident offers the following advice for a much easier way to increase the value of wooden treasures.
Forget expensive, difficult to use paint and varnish removers, he says. Household oven cleaners do the trick at a fraction of the cost in a fraction of the time and can be just as effective. Oven Cleaners can be sprayed on as opposed to being brushed on, eliminating at least one step in the application process. Such products are fast-acting, removing paint and varnish very quickly, and keeping exposure to toxic gases to a minimum.
The Materials Required
Equipment/materials required for faster paint/varnish removal from wood:
- Heavier grade rubber kitchen glove which extends up the forearm
- Newspapers or other protective material
- Oven cleaner (spray format)
- Paint scraper and/or non-scratching putty knife
- Small brass or wire brush
- Medium grade steel wool
- Final finishing material (ie. stain or urethane), thinner and brush(es) if required
Easy Stripping and Refinishing Steps
- Lay newspapers or other protective material on the floor or other work surfaces
- Ensure adequate ventilation
- Remove any fabric, hardware, doors and drawers from the furniture being worked on
- Spray oven cleaner on an area about 24″ x 24″ (60 cm X 60 cm) following all safety instructions on the product labelling.
- Wait for 5 – 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the paint or varnish, or until the surface starts to bubble up or discolour.
- Using a paint scraper or putty knife, gently but firmly graze the old finish off the area of the application being careful not to scratch the wood. This process may have to be repeated in the same area if there are several layers of paint or finish.
- Difficult to reach cracks or crevices can be reached with small brass or wire brush (which won’t damage the wood)
- Perform a final cleaning with medium grade steel wool. Again spray the scraped area with oven cleaner.
- Rub the wetted area with the steel wool, applying pressure until the area is dry and clean.
- Now that you can see the bare wood you can decide how you want it to look. If you wish to change the colour or hue, apply a stain according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Once the entire piece is clean, dry and ready, brush or spray on a matte or low gloss clear coat (urethane or similar finish). If brushing, use a high-quality fine paint style brush. Thin the clear coat with a very small ratio of appropriate thinner, if practical. This will help it to flow more easily, lessening any brush marks which may appear.
Wish you could paint over your old wood paneling to brighten up your home? This article explains how in simple English for the do-it-yourself enthusiast.
Recently I published this article How to Bring Life to Old Wood Paneling Cheaply and Easily explaining how to restore a new shine to old paneling and woodwork easily.
After reading the article, a fellow writer dropped me a line wanting to know if she could just paint over old wood paneling, as she “has too much of it.” As someone who loves the look of finished wood, I didn’t know that such a thing was possible.
Paint Over Finished Wood? I Wouldn’t Do it, But …
But, while I happen to love the look and longevity of stained and varnished wood, and would not usually recommend painting over it, I understand how some may not feel the same way. That being said, I decided to write this article detailing a couple of methods used to cover old varnished wood.
First of all, it depends on what the wood is on. For instance, if you’re looking to cover an old desk or coffee table, then you’re going to want to completely strip the old varnish and stain away before painting.
Any surface that would be considered “high traffic” would qualify to be stripped before painting. This is because these surfaces would be more prone to chipping and flaking because of repeated use.
When Completely Stripping Varnish From the Woodwork
Removing the old stain and varnish can be done with any of several brands of stripper on the market, such as Jasco Varnish and Stain Remover or PVR Paint and Varnish Remover. This is usually a labor-intensive task, requiring multiple applications and cleanup, as well as sometimes including the use of protective clothing or masks.
Different brands have different sets of instructions, and their formulas vary from highly toxic to environmentally friendly, and although the highly toxic ones tend to work a little better, the environmentally friendly ones are, well, environmentally friendly. The choice is of course yours.
- A Typical Regular Varnish Remover (Jasco Varnish and Stain Remover)
- A Typical Environmentally Friendly Varnish Remover (PVR Paint and Varnish Remover)
If You Want to Paint Without Stripping the Surfaces First
However, if the surface is not going to be handled or touched often, such as the surface of a paneled wall, then you can paint over them, with just a little preparation first.
Keep in mind that if your paneling has a “textured” surface such as in the image accompanying this article, the texture will most likely show through the final coat of paint.
The first thing you’re going to want to do is to thoroughly clean the surface with a degreasing agent and a scouring pad or steel wool. This will remove any wax or oils on the surface that could cause the new paint not to adhere well. Be sure to wipe down the surfaces well to remove any detergent residue.
Next, you’ll need to lightly sand the surface of the varnish with medium-grit sandpaper or a sanding sponge. Around 150 grit works well, and be sure to sand any grooves or scrollwork as well. For grooves, I usually fold a piece of sandpaper over the edge of a plastic squeegee or plastic putty knife.
Remember, you don’t need to sand away everything, you just want to take the shine off of the varnish. This will provide a coarse surface for the new primer to bond with.
After you’ve finished sanding, wipe down the surfaces with mineral spirits to remove any dust left behind, and allow to dry completely. Be sure to check any grooves or scrollwork before painting as the mineral spirits can collect in these and still be wet, which would cause the primer coat to not adhere.
Now you’re almost ready to begin painting. Tape off any edges with Blue Painter’s Tape, and apply a good oil-based primer to the surface. Be sure to use a high-quality roller or brush to prevent any “texturing” or “bristle marks” on the surfaces.
Allow the primer to dry completely, then check over the surfaces for any blemishes that the primer may have revealed. Any nail holes or dents can be repaired with Wood Filler Putty and sanded smooth. Be sure to re-prime these areas after repairing them.
Pay Attention to the Small Details, Like Grooves or Scrollwork
Once you have a smooth surface, you can apply your finish coats. Depending on what quality paint you choose, it may take as many as two to three coats for complete coverage. Watch any grooves or scrollwork carefully for buildup, and use a brush to pull the paint very thin on each coat in them.
Excessive buildup can cause a “blurring” effect on the sharp edges of the grooves, which will detract from your finished look.
If you’d like a very smooth finish, you can lightly sand before your final coat using a medium-fine grit, around 200 to 280, to knock down any drips or imperfections.
That’s all there is to it. It’s a little labor-intensive, but for those who think they have too much woodwork in their home and would like to brighten things up a bit, this fairly easy procedure will do it. Good luck!